Sean McColl: DreamCatcher (9a)
napisal: alpikor, dne: October 1, 2009Cela štiri leta (23.september 2005) po prvem vzponu Sharme je ostala ena najtežjih smeri Severne Amerike DreamCatcher (5.14d; 9a) v Squamishu neponovljena. V smeri so se preiskušali plezalci ala Sonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle, Paul Robinson in verjetno še kdo od ta močnih. Linija je ostala neponovljena vse do prihoda Sean McColla.
Foto: Simon Parton; 23.09.2009; DreamCatcher (9a); Squamish;
"I rested each hand a couple of times and started to get psyched up. Before I left the rest, I took a couple really deep breaths and decided it was time. I made the hard move around the corner with my right hand and quickly brought my left hand to the pinch on the corner. I lunged right to the crux hold and felt pretty good. I made room for my other hand to come in, then matched feet then did the move. My feet blew off as I was re adjusting my fingers on the hold but I still felt good. I pasted my left foot on the corner of the wall and threw into the next gaston. Two more moves and I was done… I moved my left foot to a higher smear in the crack, matched hands and threw for the final jug. I hit the jug and a stream of endorphins hit my body. I rested back and forth a bit then did the last 4 moves and clipped the chains. As I clipped the chains, I let out a victory cry that could be heard all around. I had done it, the second ascent of Dreamcatcher." ...več
vir: PromoBlog; seanmccoll.com; climbingnarc.com; climbing.com; deadpointmag.com
video DreamCatcher (9a); Chris Sharma
Kategorija: Športno plezanje |
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